| Directions for testing a washing machine water inlet valve.|
Before you begin to test your washer's water inlet valve, make sure you disconnect the appliance's power supply. The easiest way to do this is to unplug the unit from the wall. Alternatively, you could trip the appropriate switch in the circuit breaker panel, or you could remove the appropriate fuse from your home's fuse box.
Start this repair by locating your washer's water inlet valve. It will be at the back of the washer, and it will have water hoses hooked up to the back of it. Shut off the supply of water to your washer. Disconnect both hoses at the back of the washer. You might want to try pointing the hoses into a bucket or a sink, and then turning on the water supply again. Do this to confirm that you are receiving adequate water pressure, and that there is not some sort of blockage in the line.
Inspect the screens found inside the valve. Clean out any debris you find. You should be able to pop them out with a flat head screwdriver. Do use caution when handling the screens as they are irreplaceable.
There are two solenoids on the water valve. These solenoids are sometimes referred to as coils. There will be two wires attached to each solenoid. Be sure to label each of the wires so that you are able to properly reconnect them later. These wires are held in place with metal slip on connectors. Grasp firmly on each connector, one at a time, to disconnect the wire from the solenoid. Do not pull directly on the wire, pull from the metal connector.
Set your multitester to the ohms resistance scale X 1. Place each of the meter's probes to one terminal. Because the reading can vary from brand to brand and from model to model, there is no one reading you should receive. However, if your test produces a reading of infinity, then the solenoid is bad and the water valve should be replaced.